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Danny Bowien on His Winning Outfit, Upcoming Book

Danny Bowien on His Winning Outfit, Upcoming Book



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We chatted with the Rising Star Chef winner last night at the James Beard Awards

Last night, Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese took home the prize for Rising Star Chef at the James Beard Awards, but he also turned up decked out enough to compete with Chicago chef (and JBF winner) Stephanie Izard for best shoes.

On his win? "[I'm] overwhelmed and extremely happy and relieved," he told us after his win. "It’s a huge step, honestly. We started this a couple of years ago and I wouldn’t be able to do it without the people who work with me. I’m a small part of this machine and it’s definitely a win on all fronts."

But of course, everyone was asking about his outfit; he did tell The Daily Meal at Chef's Night Out on Sunday that he bought a new suit for this occasion. The threads? A suit from Dries Van Noten, shirt from Raf Simons, and Jordan 11 shoes. "Michael Jordan, he wanted a shoe that you could play basketball in and also go to press conferences in," he told us. "I’ve wanted these shoes for 15 years so I bought them."

And the hair? "I’ve had it like this for a couple of weeks and I was going to dye it back, but then I got this suit so I was like, I'm just going to leave it," he told us. Word on the street is even Martha Stewart was impressed.

As for what's next for the bicoastal chef? "We’ve been working on a book for a while under Anthony Bourdain’s imprint," he told us, referring to the cookbook with Lucky Peach editor-in-chief Chris Ying. "It’s a little bit of everything, it's going to be narrative cooking, it's definitely going to cover a lot of ground," Bowien said. "We want it to be different but we're still writing it." He says it might be out in 2014, so keep your eyes peeled.


For Chef Angela Dimayuga, All Food Is Identity Politics

When Angela Dimayuga, the star chef of Mission Chinese Food, announced that she was joining The Standard, the news made headlines in the food press. The attention is a testament to the mark that she made at Danny Bowien’s innovative, critically-lauded, bi-coastal establishment. Dimayuga’s work both in the kitchen and beyond established her as one the industry’s most promising, inventive talents, and after her departure from Mission Chinese in late 2017, many were watching to see what her next move would be. The decision to join a hospitality brand—albeit one with a decidedly unconventional approach to hotels, and for that matter, food—was probably not a next step that anyone saw coming.

As Standard Culture learned from sitting down with Dimayuga a few weeks after stepping into her new role, the decision was actually the result of a radical transformation in her thinking that started in 2012 when she was first immersing herself in Mission Chinese’s eccentric take on American Chinese food.

In preparation for opening the restaurant’s first New York location, Dimayuga worked for six weeks, six-days-a-week alongside Bowien at Mission Chinese’s San Francisco flagship. A side benefit of the training was that she was afforded the (rare) luxury of spending her days off with her family in San Jose. “My parents were really curious about Mission Chinese,” Dimayuga explained. “They were like, ‘Why are you going to work at this carpeted Chinese restaurant in San Francisco?’ They didn’t understand it. But when my dad found out that the owner [Bowien], through his success, sent all of his Chinese employees to China, he goes, ‘It reminds me of when I worked at McDonald’s.’”

The daughter of Filipino immigrants, Dimayuga grew up in San Jose in the ‘90s. Her mother worked as an administrator at IBM, and her father managed a McDonald’s franchise, where, as part of a regional drive-through sales competition, he began experimenting with his own homegrown tactics.

He won the competition, and used the prize money to take his employees to Las Vegas. When the corporate higher-ups caught on, one of these ideas—pre-set combinations of previously separate menu items—became that most American of American innovations: the McDonald’s Extra Value Meal, a template that spread to the fast food industry as a whole.

Through scrappy immigrant ingenuity, Dimayuga’s father made a lasting impact on the way Americans eat, and Dimayuga drew parallels to her own experience and thinking about food. “It made me understand why there are certain aspects of restaurants that I like regarding logistics and organization, and maybe that comes from the strategizing that he did.” Dimayuga also looked more closely at her family’s deep connections to food. Her grandmother, the designated chef of the family, hails from Pampanga, the Philippines’ culinary epicenter, and the family specialty was pastries and deserts. Her sister turned those family recipes into a business, and today, Red Ribbon (which she sold in the late ‘90s) is one of the biggest Filipino food chains in the world, with hundreds of locations nationally and internationally.

"I’m not interested in the irreverent, punk attitude that a lot of these ‘bro chefs’ have. That’s not what drives me to be a chef, that was never what was inspirational to me."

“For me, thinking about my parents’ immigrant story and myself as a cog in the restaurant industry was a critical point, absolutely. All these things I realized about my background and family history with cooking became more poignant to me as a professional chef.” Ultimately, this exploration shaped how Dimayuga began thinking about her work, allowing her to see it in a wider, richer, more personal context—one that was inextricably linked to her identity as a queer, lesbian Filipinx-American.

In New York, Dimayuga set about infusing this perspective into her work, from reshaping the menu (to great acclaim) to forging a different kind of kitchen culture—one in which she talked openly with her staff about issues of intersectionality that arose in the course of service. It surely helped that Dimayuga was a force in the kitchen. The food was one-of-a-kind, delicious, and wildly imaginative, a testament to Dimayuga’s rare combination of fluency and deep-seated curiosity. The New York Times named Mission Chinese “Restaurant of the Year” in 2012, New York magazine named Dimayuga “Best Chef” in 2015, and she was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award in 2016.

With the elevated profile that came with these accolades, and an increasingly expansive view of what a chef should be, Dimayuga began using Mission Chinese as a testing ground for exploring the intersection of political, cultural, and creative ideas with food and restaurants. “With my work at Mission, I’ve tried to challenge our ideas of what American food is. American food is Chinese takeout. American food is Kentucky Fried Chicken. It’s also ethnic food. The amazing aspect of an American dream story is that, even if you’re doing something completely different in your origin country, you can build a restaurant and become accepted in the American landscape. That’s absolutely what my parents did. It’s dense. There’s a lot to explore.”

Dimayuga’s exploration grew to encompass cross-disciplinary, cross-cultural, and experimental collaborations with artists, fashion designers, and flavor-chemists. The result was a dynamic cultural confluence that pushed her further into the spotlight.

“There was a moment there [in 2014] where people in the media started to be interested in me because they saw what my splash at Mission was. I really wanted to make sure that whatever I said was thoughtful, and I wanted to take that platform seriously. I’m not interested in the irreverent, punk attitude that a lot of these ‘bro chefs’ have. That’s not what drives me to be a chef, that was never what was inspirational to me.”

Dimayuga’s 2017 departure from Mission Chinese was covered at length in the food press. As was her post-election public repudiation of an overture from Ivanka Trump’s brand. The reality is that the two things were connected by Dimayuga’s fundamental conviction that food is inherently political, and her desire to be seen as more than just a chef.

“After I made the Ivanka Trump statement, I was able to cut out a lot of things that didn’t pertain to me a lot quicker. People were starting to see me as a whole person. I hated that people just thought I made good spicy food. I really cared about balancing out that menu. And I wanted to balance out people’s perceptions of what a chef could be, or what anyone can be. You can be multi-faceted. It made me realize that I wanted to think about my career differently.”

For Dimayuga, The Standard is a platform where she can do just that working directly with chefs on conceptually-driven cooking that changes how people think about food. “I like to see people do things outside of their comfort zones. I think people find me approachable to work with because I move with the utmost curiosity. What I’m changing about the landscape of food is thinking about it as a political act.”


Why You Can’t Miss the 6th Annual LA Food & Wine Festival

One of the most highly anticipated food events of the year, the Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival is making its way back to Los Angeles the last weekend in August and will be featuring a myriad of celebrity chefs and hosts. The festival presented by FOOD & WINE and Lexus spans four days and features tastings, seminars, book signings, cooking demonstrations, luncheons and dinners showcasing the best of the best in the culinary world.

Photo courtesy of lafw.com

Guests will also feast on tastes from L.A.’s top restaurants and enjoy wine and cocktails from the industry’s best mixologists.

Photo courtesy of lafw.com

FOOD & WINE is always on the cutting edge of what’s new hot and trendy in food, drink and entertainment and they are pulling out all the stops for this year’s festival. Anyone who is anyone in the food world will be there.

Photo courtesy of lafw.com

You are totally going to want to score tickets for the entire list of events.

Yours truly is really looking forward to these the most:

Amazon Presents Eat the World with Emeril Lagasse

Photo courtesy of lafw.com

The inimitable Emeril Lagasse hosts an evening that brings chefs from all over the country to celebrate the food they are most passionate about. The walk-around tasting that spans one of the most iconic blocks of downtown Los Angeles on the steps of the Walt Disney Concert Hall and The Broad features exciting culinary creations from all over the map.

The inspiration for the global take on cuisine comes from the upcoming Amazon Original Series, Eat The World, which follows world-famous Lagasse as his award-winning friends and colleagues José Andrés, Mario Batali, Danny Bowien, Marcus Samuelsson, Aarón Sánchez and Nancy Silverton introduce him to the history, techniques and cooking traditions of their favorite locales across the globe.

Guests will sample food from some of the best chefs in the country as they highlight the dishes that inspire them all while enjoying a plethora of beer, wine and cocktails.

LIVE on Grand hosted by Tyler Florence

Photo courtesy of lafw.com

An unbelievable strolling reception with an extraordinary performance by a musical guest. This exceptional evening stars 30 chefs and 50 wineries serving up delicious tastings for you to enjoy while enjoying the Cityscapes of one of the greatest cities in the world. This is the culmination of a city-wide celebration of all things Food, Wine, Celebrity, Music and Los Angeles.


Honorees

Devika Bhise

A New York native, Devika Bhise was most recently seen starring alongside Jeremy Irons, Toby Jones, Dev Patel, and Stephen Fry in The Man Who Knew Infinity, based on the life of genius mathematician Srinivasa Ramanujan. Up next, Bhise will star as Rani Lakshmibai, the historic Queen of Jhansi, in Swords and Sceptres: The Rani of Jhansi. The film tells the incredible true story of a queen who led her army against the British East India. In addition to starring, Bhise co-wrote the script with Swati Bhise and Olivia Emden. She has appeared in numerous independent films and was selected as an actor for the 2018 Sundance Director’s Lab. Beyond her work in film, Bhise has guest starred in the CBS crime drama Elementary, off-Broadway play And Miles To Go, and The Partition, a play based on the life of Srinivasa Ramanuja. She attended Johns Hopkins University, where she was awarded the Hodson Trust Scholarship and the Woodrow Wilson Fellowship under the mentorship of award-winning actor John Astin.

Danielle Chang

Danielle Chang is a cultural entrepreneur who has invested the past quarter century in buiding brands across the creative industries of art, media, fashion, and food. She is the founder and CEO of LUCKYRICE, a lifestyle brand that shines a spotlight on Asian culture through food and drink. She created and hosts Lucky Chow, an award-winning television program broadcast nationally on PBS. As an entrepreneur, Danielle founded Simplycity, a global women’s lifestyle media company and print publication, Xiao Bao Chinese, a Chinese language and culture school, and ArtWalk Art Tours. Prior to starting LUCKYRICE, she was the CEO of fashion brand Vivienne Tam, a Director of the Andrea Rosen and Jeffrey Deitch galleries, and worked at Goldman Sachs, Assouline, and The New York Times. She holds a Master’s in Critical Theory and Cultural Studies from Columbia University. Her first cookbook, Lucky Rice: Stories and Recipes from Night Markets, Feasts and Family Tables, was published in 2016.

Kenzo Digital

Kenzo Digital is a director, creative director, and artist based in New York City. His work is dedicated to synthesizing new narrative forms with ground-breaking technology to create impactful, emotional stories. Kenzo is best known for his collaborative work with Beyoncé, including her performance at the 2011 Billboard Awards. He has worked on immersive, experiential projects for brands, artists, and organizations including the United Nations. As a traditional film director, his work has been featured in the Tribeca Film Festival and Mill Valley Film Festival. In his capacity as a creative director, his clients include Nike, Apple, and Google. Kenzo serves as the video director of Nam June Paik’s studio and is expert in residence at the Harvard University Innovation Lab. He is the founder of Kenzo Digital Immersive, an immersive storytelling studio based in New York.

About Bubble_T

Bubble_T is an Asian/Pacific/Queer collective focused on supporting and lifting the community. They are a community of collaborative and creative minds continuing the conversation around Asian visibility, inclusivity, diversity and love. A dance party for everyone, their DJs serve Filipino garage party R&B, freestyle and hip-hop anthmes with house and pop in the mix, and captivating live performances. Bubble_T parties celebrates the collective’s cross-cultural heritage, love for karaoke culture, Asian fashion references and pop divas Russel Wong eating a watermelon, Lynda Trang Dai in a studded bra top, and Anita Mui’s cover of “Into the Groove.” The Bubble_T family is committed to providing a space for queer and trans people of color. Join them and spill the Bubble_T!

About Asia in America: Next Generation

Asia in America, a yearly celebration, recognizes Asian American artists and creatives who have played a transformative role in the arts of the United States. Arts and culture have served as a foundation for Asia Society since its inception, and on this spring evening, arts enthusiasts and supporters will gather at Asia Society to celebrate the achievements of exceptional Asian Americans in this country. Last year’s celebration honored Danny Bowien, Prabal Gurung, Kikka Hanazawa, Naeem Khan, Vikas Khanna, Mohsen Namjoo, Hee Seo, Peter Som, Chandrika Tandon, and DJ Satoshi Tomiie with over 700 guests in attendance.

This spring, Asia Society presents Asian in America, a series of conversations, performances, and celebrations exploring the Asian and Asian American experience in the United States.


GREEN SCREEN 2019

Is it possible to live completely waste free? In this multi-award winning, festival favorite, partners Jen and Grant go head to head in a competition to see who can swear off consumerism and produce the least garbage.

Their light-hearted competition is set against a darker examination of the problem waste. Even as Grant and Jen start to garner interest in their project, they struggle to find meaning in their minuscule influence on the large-scale environmental impacts of our “throw-away society”.

Described as An Inconvenient Truth meets Super Size Me, The Clean Bin Project features laugh out loud moments, stop motion animations, and unforgettable imagery. Captivating interviews with renowned artist, Chris Jordan and TED Lecturer Captain Charles Moore, make this film a fun and inspiring call to individual action that speaks to crowds of all ages.

Special Guest Speaker: Chef, writer, and media host extraordinaire, Erica Wides. Erica is the creator and host of Let’s Get Real the cooking show about finding, preparing and eating FOOD. She's also a columnist for the Huffington Post and NuMi, and has appeared on The Dr. Oz Show, the Food Network’s Top 5 and Chopped, Home Shopping Network, PBS, Sirius Radio, NPR, and in 2013 was invited to speak at TedX Berkeley.


The 50 Most Stylish New Yorkers: 2013 Edition

Autumn in New York is like nowhere else in the world: The days are bright, the muggy heat of summer subsides, and the city itself seems re-energized as locals bid farewell to leisurely long weekends and prepare to buckle down and face a new season.

Then, of course, there’s the fashion. September is really the industry’s biggest month, as richly-textured fall collections arrive in stores and New Yorkers can finally ditch their summer garb and start trotting out their best fall looks on their way to appointments, the office, and — yes — New York Fashion Week. The magazine world heralds the new season by rolling out big cover stars on their September issues, all clad in fall’s most covetable designer pieces.

To celebrate the fall here at StyleCaster, we’re proud to present the 2013 edition of the 50 Most Stylish New Yorkers. Every year, we tirelessly comb the city to curate our annual list of 50 new, fresh faces — from musicians and models to restaurateurs and designers — who help make up the kaleidoscope that is New York. Although most of our honorees were quick to call New York style “undefinable,” that diverse range is exactly what makes it so engaging.

This year, we’re taking our annual feature out of the studio and onto the streets. To bring the feature to life, it seemed only right to enlist renowned street style photographer Phil Oh of Street Peeper, who captured each of our most stylish honorees against New York’s myriad backdrops — from the tree-lined avenues of the Upper East Side to the mural-covered streets on the Bowery.

The city itself has such an effect on New York style — from the sidewalks to the runways — that we can confidently say that New York itself has the 51st slot on our Most Stylish list.

This year’s Most Stylish New Yorkers include bold-faced names like Courtney Love, Linda Fargo, Patina Miller, and Marcus Samuelsson, all of whom braved drizzle, traffic, and overall city bustle in allowing us to shoot them in a variety of neighborhoods all over New York. The finished product certainly reflects the unpredictable (you could even say guerrilla) nature of this production, which included photographing Tony Award-winning Miller in the pouring rain and dodging speeding cabs as we shot rising pop star Natalia Kills on a ridiculously busy stretch of 6th Avenue.

Given the amount of interviews and video we amassed while doing this project, we’ll be rolling out original content everyday over the next few weeks, so make sure to check back for more!

Without further ado, we present to you StyleCaster’s 50 Most Stylish New Yorkers Click through the slideshow above to see the city’s most fashionable residents!

Photographer: Phil Oh
Producer: Samantha Lim

The 2013 Edition of StyleCaster’s Most Stylish New Yorkers is Presented by Sperry Top-Sider


Share All sharing options for: Eater's 21 Essential Cookbooks of 2013

Photos: Paula Forbes / Eater

As 2013 draws to a close, it is time to sort through the mountains (and mountains) of cookbooks published over the course of the year and decide which ones should earn a spot on your bookshelf. Here now, the second annual Eater Essential Cookbooks list. (See 2012's picks here.) Of the books that fall within Eater's purview — that is, books that are for, by, or about chefs and restaurants — these are the ones that are required reading. Hundreds and hundreds of cookbooks are published every year the books below separate themselves by offering something original, useful, beautiful, and/or interesting to the culinary conversation.

NEW YORK CITY

The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook

After twenty years, Danny Meyer's beloved New York restaurant Gramercy Tavern finally got a cookbook, and it was worth the wait. Chef Michael Anthony wrote a slightly upscale version of an all-purpose cookbook, this is your go-to for dressed up chicken soup, carrot cake, braised pork, seafood chowder, homemade pasta and more.

The Four & Twenty Blackbirds Pie Book: Uncommon Recipes from the Celebrated Brooklyn Pie Shop

Four & Twenty Blackbirds is a Brooklyn pie shop that serves up both classics (buttermilk, sour cream raisin) and new twists (their famous salted honey pie). Sisters Emily Elsen and Melissa Elsen take their inspiration from both their homeland of South Dakota as well as their surroundings in the artisanal playground that is Brooklyn, New York.

So, does the world need another pie book? Maybe, maybe not. But here's the bottom line: I couldn't make pie dough to save my life before I got my hands on this book, and now I can, and it both tastes and looks good. The other books on this list would be lucky to achieve half as much. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

Ivan Ramen: Love, Obsession, and Recipes from Tokyo's Most Unlikely Noodle Joint

Before Ivan Orkin started opening ramen shops in New York City, he tackled the Tokyo ramen scene. This book — more of a narrative than others on this list — tells the story of how a New Yorker ended up in Japan in the first place, fell for ramen, and proceeded to open a noodle shop that consistently has lines out the door.

The book also contains a 43-page long recipe for Orkin's ramen (and its various accoutrements) that reads like a testament to doing things the right way. Not every book can get away with a recipe that detailed then again, not every book needs to. Orkin gave his ramen its due. Add to all this possibly the best cookbook foreword ever written, courtesy David Chang's letter to Orkin about opening a ramen shop in New York City. Check out: Eater's interview, Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

Daniel: My French Cuisine

Daniel: My French Cuisine is a capstone text for New York chef Daniel Boulud. Published to celebrate twenty years of his three Michelin-starred restaurant Daniel, the book is comprised of three sections. First, a length exploration of the restaurant's food, written with Sylvie Bigar. Second, a section by Bill Buford in which Boulud explores the classics (and technically astounding) dishes of his native Lyon. Third, a short section with home recipes.

The book is grand, it's gorgeous, it's glossy, it's everything you could ask for from a book celebrating the career of a chef like Boulud. Check out: a making-of video, Boulud's chat with Charlie Rose, Eater's Boulud interview, a trailer for the book, Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

THE SOUTH

The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen

For their third cookbook, the brothers Matt Lee and Ted Lee go deep into the history of their hometown of Charleston, exploring the historic flavors and dishes that put the Southern town on the culinary map.

Of particular interest is the chapter on Drinks, which has recipes for Loquat Manhattans, Summer Peach Coolers, and Kumquat-Chile Bloody Marys. Just the thing to pre-game eating your body weight in oysters or she-crab soup. Check out: Eater's interview with the Lee Brothers, Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey: Recipes from My Three Favorite Food Groups and Then Some

Oxford, Mississippi chef John Currence delivered his first cookbook this year, and while there were those who were shocked by its whiskey-fueled antics, the true draw of the book is Currence's deeply personal take on Southern food.

There are recipes in here to satisfy everyone from the beginner home cook to the restaurant professional, and there are also projects galore from canning to cured meats. Check out: Eater's interview with Currence and Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen

The first cookbook from Louisville chef Ed Lee instructs on his style of cooking: some Southern influence, some Korean influence, a whole lot of remoulade and bourbon. The narrative is a compelling read and there are both weeknight friendly recipes as well as more complicated projects.

The rice bowl variations and the seasonal kimchi are worth the price of the book alone. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

CALIFORNIA

The A.O.C. Cookbook

Making no apologies for complex dishes — "in the era of thirty-minute meals, my recipes do take longer" — Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin's second cookbook is a standout volume full of wood-fired, California-inspired dishes from her wine and cheese bar.

The book is filled with a tremendous amount of information, some of it culinary and some of it about Goin and the history of the restaurant. There's also a 56-page guide to cheese and plenty of wine notes. Check out: Eater's First Look, an interview with Goin.
[Buy on Amazon]

Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole

Go search whole grain bread books on Amazon. Of the few that come up, almost all of them focus on nutrition and dieting. That is, except for Chad Robertson's book.

After the success of the Tartine Bakery breadmeister's last cookbook, Robertson turned his attentions to whole grains. Not for health, but for flavor. For the challenge of it. Because that was the next frontier in baking. Bread nerdery doesn't even begin to describe it. Check out: Eater's First Look, a trailer for the book.*
[Buy on Amazon]

Manresa: An Edible Reflection

The dreamy Manresa: An Edible Reflection by California chef David Kinch is perhaps the polar opposite of Daniel: My French Cuisine, but is equally a stellar example of a big shiny chef's cookbook. At one point, Kinch writes, "I should write BALANCE in capital letters throughout the book, because that's what cooking is really all about: it's about understanding the power of moderation."

The same can be said for cookbooks themselves: a little restaurant history, a few recipes, nice big photos, profiles of purveyors, a smattering of art from the restaurant, essays on the philosophy of cooking, and more. It's a nicely rounded portrait of the restaurant. Check out: a talk between Eric Ripert and David Kinch, David Kinch's Google Talk, Eater's David Kinch interview, and Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food

Los Angeles chef Roy Choi's combination memoir and cookbook doesn't cover the period of his life he is most known for: the creation and subsequent domination of his Kogi BBQ Taco Truck and the restaurants it spawned. Rather, L.A. Son covers the struggles of his youth and young adulthood, and his love for the city of L.A. Very few cookbooks are as personal as this one many try, most fail. Choi's not showing off here, he's nurturing. These are mostly recipes for home cooking, for comfort food.

PORTLAND

Toro Bravo: Stories. Recipes. No Bull.

The first thing you'll notice about Toro Bravo — besides its bright yellow cover — is that the recipes don't start for a good 90 pages. What you have first is pages and pages of back story, both of chef John Gorham and his Portland tapas restaurant Toro Bravo, as well as food philosophizing and general cooking intel.

In addition to that first section and the recipes for tapas large and small, the layout and art direction here is a major draw. When was the last time a cookbook looked so modern and refreshing? The influence of former-Lucky Peach publisher McSweeney's is strongly felt on these pages and I hope cookbooks in general veer toward more color, more photos, and more user-friendliness. Perhaps a follow-up Tasty n Sons book is in order? Check out: a sneak peek of the book.
[Buy on Amazon]

Pok Pok: Food and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand

Here's the thing about the Pok Pok cookbook: say whatever you want about the recipes being complicated (they are) or the ingredients being hard to source (more on that in a second). The fact of the matter is that if you make them how chef Andy Ricker and his co-author J.J. Goode explain, the food will taste exactly like it does in the restaurant. That is no small feat. Add to that the fact that the stack of books in the Southeast Asian category is embarrassingly short (compared to say the tower of Italian cookbooks that come out each year), and the only word you can use to describe this year's Eater Award winner for best cookbook is "essential."

Now, about those ingredients. There has been some griping that it's hard to source all of the ingredients required for these dishes, and perhaps in some areas of the US that is true. However: a trip to a decently-sized Asian supermarket will yield a tidy pantry's-worth of good quality fish sauce, dried shrimp, and other necessities for a small amount of cash. Barring that, there's actually an online grocery store that will ship you ingredient kits for various recipes. Check out: a talk with Andy Ricker about the book, Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird

Portland chef Gabriel Rucker's Le Pigeon cookbook is full of character: Rucker's, the restaurant's, Portland's. It's such a stellar example of a portrait of a restaurant: as good a read as it is potential dinner party inspiration. (This is almost certainly not weeknight family dinner fodder.) The stories are engaging and the photography is well done but not fussy.

As a bonus, GM Andy Fortgang's wine notes are not an afterthought (as in many books) but could almost be separated out into their own volume. Check out: Eater's interview with Rucker, Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

OTHER U.S.

The New Midwestern Table: 200 Heartland Recipes

As the Southern-cookbook craze of the past several years appears to be cooling off a little, it seems it might be time for other US regions to step forward. First in line is Amy Thielen's refreshing take on the foods of her native Minnesota and the surrounding region. Think lightly smoked fresh water fish, foods with German and Scandinavian influences, and obviously a riff on the ubiquitous northwoods hot dish.

The book is a tie-in with Thielen's TV show, part of a deal between Random House and the Food Network to produce new projects together. The show was recently renewed for a second season. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

Smoke

Smoke: New Firewood Cooking, the book from Dallas chef Tim Byres, is full of all sorts of useful information. If there were scouting badges for adults, Smoke would be the guide for the Smoked Foods, Infused Liquors, and Building Backyard Cooking Apparati badges.

While the book does feature dishes from Byres' acclaimed restaurant (including, yes, their Double-Barrel Bloody Mary), the majority of the book focuses on four feasts: Gulf Coast Seafood Boil, Tejano Barbacoa, Pig Roast, and a Campfire Breakfast. These are huge operations — several of which involve welding — but there's no reason individual recipes can't be lifted out. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

INTERNATIONAL

Sugar Shack Au Pied de Cochon

Warning, NSFW: Martin Picard's chronicle of his rural-Quebec maple syrup outpost the Sugar Shack (Cabane à Sucre) contains photos of a bunch of naked women and enough food porn to make any hedonist blush. By the numbers: four photos of totally naked women, four photos of mostly naked women, five illustrations of mostly naked women, one photo of a mostly naked man, one recipe for pancakes, one recipe for something called "Squirrel Sushi," eight recipes that include foie gras, three recipes that call for lobster, and recipes that call for calf's brain, bone marrow, truffles, caviar, oysters, veal, hare's kidneys, beaver tail, and Canadian Club. Oh, and dozens of recipes that call for gallons upon gallons of maple syrup.

It is, in other words, exactly what you might expect from a bunch of Quebecois stuck in the woods standing over a boiling pot of tree sap for weeks on end, and it is insane and wonderful. Check out: Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

D.O.M.: Rediscovering Brazilian Ingredients

You're probably not going to cook much from chef Alex Atala's upcoming cookbook, D.O.M.: Rediscovering Brazilian Ingredients, and it's not because its recipes call for things like immersion circulators and centrifuges. (Although they do, occasionally.) By and large, the Brazilian ingredients mentioned in the title — everything from ants to zebus — aren't going to be available at Whole Foods.

But the point of this book isn't really to enable you to recreate the experience of Atala's São Paulo restaurant at home. Instead, the book aims to educate readers about Brazilian ingredients and give them context for understanding what Atala is doing with them. It's an introduction to the sixth best restaurant in the world. Check out: Atala on Brazilian ingredients, Chang and Atala on Creativity, Eater's First Look.*
[Buy on Amazon]

Historic Heston

This year's biggest, shiniest, glossiest, heaviest, and most expensive book ($125) is British chef Heston Blumenthal's Historic Heston, by a rather old fashioned English mile. The book is his first proper followup to the massive Big Fat Duck Cookbook as that book focused on his Bray restaurant the Fat Duck, this one takes cues from his London restaurant, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. (Although not exclusively, it does contain recipes from his other restaurants.)

The book includes recipes from "medieval to late-Victorian." Each chapter centers on one historic recipe, followed by Blumenthal's exploration of both its historical context and his modern application of it. In sum: if Willy Wonka ran Hogwarts, Historic Heston would be the history textbook. Check out: Eater's First Look, Blumenthal discusses the book, a video preview.*
[Buy on Amazon]

Japanese Soul Cooking

Japanese Soul Cooking is a look at the street food, home cooked comfort food, and bar snacks that make up Japanese cuisine. Pointedly skipping over sushi — the jacket copy literally begins "Move over, sushi" — Japanese Soul Cooking instead instructs on the art of gyoza, tempura, curries, kara-age, okonomiyaki, and more.

The book is both an education in the every day eats of Japan as well as a guide to trying them out yourself at home. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon ]

The Cocktail Lab

British master of the modern cocktail Tony Conigliaro's The Cocktail Lab: Unraveling the Mysteries of Flavor and Aroma in Drink, with Recipes happens to be the only booze book on this list. Included are recipes from the simple (a Kir Royale) to the incredibly complex (Conigliaro's famous riff on the Prairie Oyster, which includes an elBulli-style tomato "yolk" served on an oyster shell). Each is tagged with the year it originally appeared in Congiliaro's unnamed London booze atelier, an explanation of its development, and a quick how-to.

It may also be the most beautiful book on this list. From the old-school cover to the still-life photography by Addie Chinn that evokes 70s Gourmet (in a good way) to the pastel sketches of cocktail structure to the hefty, glossy paper, The Cocktail Lab is a book that will age gracefully on the shelf next to cocktail stunners of the past. Check out: Eater's First Look.
[Buy on Amazon]

*Eater operatives have tested recipes from all of these books except for those marked with a star. The untested cookbooks are recommended as good reads, beautiful objects, or both. Special thanks to Amy McKeever and Raphael Brion for their assistance.


About Michael Natkin

My journey as a serious cook began when I was 18 years old. My mother was dying from breast cancer and was trying a macrobiotic diet to see if it would help. A friend of mine, a vegetarian and a good cook, showed me the ropes so that I could make meals for my family. It didn't take me long to realize that I loved everything about cooking. When I moved to Providence for college, I was exposed to international cuisines that I'd never seen in my hometown of Louisville. I subsequently worked in a beautiful Zen Buddhist farm kitchen in California and traveled the world, gradually settling into a career as a software engineer, making dinosaurs for "Jurassic Park" and animation software for Adobe.

My love for cooking deepened through the years. I wanted to do more than simply prepare meals for my own family. I started my blog, http://herbivoracious.com, in 2007. Thousands of people visit daily and share my passion for vegetarian food that draws on global inspirations and, above all, puts flavor and pleasure first. I also spent some months interning at restaurants in Seattle and New York. This book is the next step. I've brought together classic techniques and flavor combinations from around the world, along with ideas from cutting-edge cuisine, to create 150 original recipes that you will be able to use for every occasion, from casual weeknight suppers to your fanciest dinner party.

It seems that everyone I meet, even dedicated carnivores, recognizes the value of eating more plant-based meals. I've written HERBIVORACIOUS both for vegetarians and for others who are looking to broaden an omnivorous repertoire.

This is the book for you if you'd like to eat lusty Crispy Polenta Cakes with White Beans and Morel Mushrooms, rich and fragrant Brown Butter Cornbread, or an unusual and refreshing salad of Persimmon, Parsley, and Black Olives. I get excited thinking about the aroma of making red curry paste from scratch, the first taste of a new year's olive oil, or the texture of beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, and I want to share those discoveries with you.


Share All sharing options for: The Dream of the ’90s Is Alive in AriZona Iced Tea

Walk into any gas station or corner bodega in the 1990s and AriZona iced tea was impossible to miss: 24 fluid ounces of liquid gold, wrapped in loud, obnoxious colors for just 99 cents. With flavors like green tea with ginseng or Arnold Palmer or watermelon juice cocktail, AriZona had a wellness halo before we talked about things like “wellness.” Also, it was just freaking huge, a symbol (albeit an unintentional one) of Clinton-era abundance.

Like an affordable housing market and early retirement, AriZona iced tea could easily have become a relic, something we’d look back on — either fondly or with disgust — and wonder what the hell were we drinking? After all, an AriZona beverage has as much sugar as soda, and, as one test confirmed, no “detectable” amount of ginseng. But somehow the brand has escaped its seemingly inevitable fate of being fodder for talking heads on shows like I Love the ’90s and is, once again, everywhere, both at your grocery store and in your social media. If you Google Image search “arizona iced tea,” one of the first suggestions is “vaporwave,” a genre of internet age electronic music that fetishizes the ’80s and ’90s. On Instagram, you’ll find girls with moody stares and on-trend caterpillar brows clutching cans of AriZona green tea. Skateboard kids in AriZona T-shirts. There is enviable nail art and sneaker collabs and an upcoming song by Shinigxmi.X. Artists are using the cans’ iconic designs to collaborate with Supreme.

We may be at the point in our calendar where the ’90s are cycling through, again — or AriZona might be eternal. The neon designs that once made these cans look garish, all cherry blossoms and zigzags, have completed the journey from gaudy to ironic to beloved. AriZona is no trend: It is officially A Mood.

When AriZona, which is actually headquartered in New York, was introduced to the beverage aisle in 1992, it was simply there to fill a hole in the market. The health warnings about soda had seeped into public consciousness, and an alternative soft drink, coupled with the “New Age” branding, was exactly what consumers wanted. The owners of AriZona, who had been beverage distributors since the 1970s, decided to make their own product to compete with well-known brands like Snapple.

According to Wesley and Spencer Vultaggio, sons of AriZona co-founder Don Vultaggio, the design of the cans was inspired by the Southwestern decor of their childhood home, which was decorated by their mother. “Our mom designed the first cans — we had this water cooler in our kitchen with this southwest zigzag motif in the pink, yellow, teal that would become the lemon tea can, which was the first entry into the market in 1992,” said Spencer, now the chief marketing officer. Don Vultaggio and co-founder John Ferolito thought it’d make for good branding, naming the product “AriZona” because it had a more mellifluous connotation (to a New Yorker at least) than anything on the East Coast. The iconic green tea label also came from the family home, a remix of a perfume bottle the Vultaggios’ mom had and one of Spencer’s coloring books.

“AriZona Iced Tea’s colorful Southwestern-type designs and unusual cans and bottles have played a big role in helping spur the brand to fourth place among iced teas in a mere two years,” reported the Vancouver Sun in 1994. Wesley and Spencer Vultaggio, now both in their 30s, remember their dad making merch in the nascent stages of the company. “We like to think of ourselves as fashionable guys, so we just made stuff that we would want to wear,” said Wesley. “And over the years we’ve been making stuff, and they sort of took on a life of their own.” Half of what pops up on Instagram is from AriZona’s official site, whether it’s T-shirts or bathing suits or fanny packs.

AriZona has happily accepted its revered place in the world of streetwear. Last year, the company opened a 99-cent store pop-up in Soho, selling clothes and skateboards, and even featuring tattoo artists giving away free AriZona-themed ink. “We figured a good way to celebrate was in the form of clothing and wearables and what a real consumer and a fan could take home and enjoy. It was powerful for them,” said Wesley. AriZona also sponsors its own skate team, of which Riley Hawk, son of Tony, is a member.


⑩ Michael & Nina Schulson: The Phanatics

Michael Schulson, chef and founder, Schulson Collective
Nina Schulson, COO, Schulson Collective

Before she joined her husband's burgeoning restaurant empire as COO, Nina Tinari Schulson was one of Philadelphia's top political consultants. In Philly, a political town, it pretty much means she ran the jawn. Now, she literally does. Between the two of them, Nina and chef/restaurateur Michael operate a handful of Philly's hottest restaurants from Sampan and the Graffiti Bar to Independence Beer Garden, izakaya place Double Knot and, most recently, Harp & Crown.

Their secret: "When we first met at a charity event in 2011, Michael noticed I didn't really eat that much. [I had a big meeting in the morning.] I think he was attracted to the idea that I wasn't a foodie. It's been really helpful that we have such distinct skill sets and have carved clear areas of responsibility and expertise. This way, there's rarely a moment of competition between us." —Nina Schulson


Watch the video: ULTRA TURBO LUCIAN! Lucian Ephemeral Deck. Legends of Runeterra LoR (August 2022).